When you are about to reach a major birthday, you start thinking about how best to celebrate it. A soirée with dancing? A special dinner for a few close friends? A trip to a tropical island? Last December was just such a landmark for me, and I decided I wanted to celebrate it in style.
I’ve been fascinated by overnight train travel since I was a child – the idea of a cosy moving cabin always appealed to me: a bed, a window looking out over a changing landscape, a glass of champagne in hand (the latter imaginative addition came later, of course)… In order to make this dream a reality and to turn back the clock in more ways than one, I booked myself a trip on the glamorous Venice–Simplon Orient Express.
The Venice–Simplon Orient Express travels several different routes during the year. The idea of waking up to the sight of a powder-white landscape amid snow-capped mountains seemed dreamy and more romantic for a winter treat, so I took the Alpine journey, which departs from Paris and arrives in Haute-Savoie. Boarding at Gare de l’Est, I was welcomed by a lively band (did they know I was about to celebrate my big day?). In no time I was shown to my cabin by Marios, the carriage ‘butler’, in his chic blue uniform.
The cabin was like a small jewellery box, encased in wonderful boiserie, with shiny brass fittings and soft lights. Named Campagne, its décor was all about the vivid greens of the Rubelli brocades of the twin chairs and the intricate flower marquetry, made by Philippe Allemand, reflecting the ‘pastures and vineyards of northern Italy’ as was noted in the in-cabin depliant. After this joyfully ornate introduction, I was ready to inspect the rest of the carriage. The other cabins, all named according to their designs, reflected the ‘ever-changing European landscape’: Montagne, Lac and Forêt.
I couldn’t resist exploring further while the train was moving and was delighted to discover that every detail was immaculate, from the patterns of the carpets – different in every carriage – to the finest marquetry, mother-of-pearl insets, Lalique glass panels and charming tassels and trimmings. I also went to see the original carriages, built in 1929, that have had some of the best and most respectful restoration work by craftsmen and designers I have ever seen. Timeless in style, their vibrant colours, plush fabrics, intricate textures and furnishings reminded me of the style of famed French Art Deco designers such as Dufrêne, Leleu, Rousseau and Prou.
Before dinner, I took a shower in the all-marble en-suite bathroom (an experience in itself while on the move!) and changed into black tie, a formality requested for all male guests on board. Suitably attired, I was ready for the evening. The bar is in car 3674, the real beating heart of the train, and is styled in midnight blue (coincidentally my favourite colour). I sat at the bar sipping a negroni – one of the best I have ever tasted – while entertained by classics played at the baby grand piano by the resident pianist. A delicious dinner, devised by the great Jean Imbert, was complemented by the atmospheric tinkle of glasses (Bohemian crystal – I checked), rattle of crockery and the hushed background swish of the moving train.
After a nightcap at the bar – and yes, singing along to some well-known tunes played on the piano – it was time for bed. When I got back to my cabin, I saw that it had been transformed by Marios into the cosiest of all bedrooms, more than matching my childhood fantasies. The following morning I was woken up by the smell of freshly brewed coffee. Outside the window was the enchanted scenery of the white Haute-Savoie landscape. It was all too wonderful and unreal.
A few days later, back on solid ground, I watched the classic, star-studded 1974 film Murder on the Orient Express, which had been filmed on the original Venice–Simplon. My heart beat a little quicker every time I recognised the corner of a cabin I’d been in, a flash of the décor I’d so admired, a scene set in the carriage I’d explored… If anything, it made the whole experience feel more fantastically surreal. I don’t think I can wait for the next big birthday to book another trip and re-enter the dream I’d had as a child.
The decorative programme continues through the public areas of the carriages
Rubelli brocades enhance the cabin interiors
Detail of a light fixture
The tinkle of glass accompanies passengers as the train swishes through the landscape
Lalique glass panels in the restaurant carriage
Every comfort is afforded guests in the
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